Changing Your Furnace Filter

Part of responsible homeownership includes, of course, regular home maintenance. And there are some tasks that, if deferred, can lead to a home system that’s inefficient and overworked, which can result in problems and expenses. One such task is changing the filter of the home’s HVAC system. It’s simple and inexpensive, and taking care of it at least every three months can mean the difference between optimum comfort and avoidable repairs.

What Can Go Wrong

Most homes have some sort of furnace or heat pump, and many of those homes (especially newer ones) have combined heating, ventilation and air-conditioning or HVAC systems. Each type uses some type of air filter or screen to prevent larger airborne particles (up to 40 microns) from entering the system and clogging sensitive machinery. A system that has a dirty filter can suffer from pressure drop, which can lead to reduced air flow, or “blow-out,” resulting in no air infiltration at all. Any of these conditions can cause the system to work harder to keep the home warm or cool (depending on the season and the setting). And any mechanical component that has to work harder to run efficiently puts undue stress on the whole system, which can lead to premature failure, resulting in repair or replacement.

Also, a dirty filter that’s exposed to condensation can become damp, which can lead to mold growth that can be spread throughout the home by the HVAC system. This can lead to serious health consequences, not to mention a compromised unit that will likely require servicing and may require replacement, depending on the severity of the moisture problem.

Types of Filters

Most HVAC and furnace filters are disposable, made of biodegradable paper or similar media, and shaped in cells, screens or fins designed to trap as much airborne debris as possible. Filters can typically be purchased in economical multi-packs, and there are many types that will fit different models of furnace/HVAC units. It’s important to use the appropriate filter for your unit; using the wrong filter that doesn’t fit the unit properly can create the same types of problems as having a dirty filter. Your HVAC installer can show you where the filter goes and how to remove the old one and install a new one. Your unit may also have an affixed label with directions for easy filter replacement.

How Often?

Your HVAC or furnace technician should service your unit once a year. Because a furnace/HVAC unit contains moving parts, it’s important that belts are not cracked and dry, ventilation ductwork is not gapped, cracked or rusted, and components, such as coils and fans, are clog-free and adequately lubricated for unimpeded operation. This sort of evaluation is best left to the professional, unless the homeowner has had the appropriate training.

The filter of the unit, especially if it’s an HVAC unit that will tend to get nearly year-round use, should be changed by the homeowner at least every three months, but possibly more often.

Check your filter’s condition and change it once a month if:

• You run your unit six months a year to year-round.
• You have pets. Pet dander can become airborne and circulate through the home’s ventilation system just as typical household dust does.
• You have a large family. More activity means more household dust, dirt and debris.
• You smoke indoors.
• You or someone in your household suffers from allergies or a respiratory condition.
• You live in a particularly windy area or experience high winds for extended periods, especially if there are no nearby shrubs or trees to provide a natural windbreak.
• You live in an area prone to or having recently experienced any wildfires. Airborne ash outdoors will eventually find its way indoors
• You have a fireplace that you occasionally use.
• You live on a working farm or ranch. Dust and dirt that gets kicked up by outdoor work activity and/or large animals can be pulled into the home’s ventilation system, especially through open windows.
• You have a large garden. Depending on its size and how often you work it, tilling soil, planting, pulling weeds, using herbicides and pesticides, and even watering mean that dirt, chemicals and condensation can be pulled into your home’s ventilation system.
• There is construction taking place around or near the home. You may be installing a new roof or a pool, or perhaps a neighbor is building a home or addition. Even if the activity is only temporary, dust and debris from worksites adjacent to or near the home can be sucked into the home’s ventilation system, and this increased activity can tax your HVAC system.

Change the filter immediately if:

• The filter is damaged. Whether it happened inside the packaging or while being installed, a damaged filter that has bent fins, collapsed cells or holes will not work as well as an undamaged filter, especially if it allows system air to bypass the filter at any point. 
• The filter is damp. A filter affected by moisture intrusion, system condensation, or even high indoor humidity can quickly become moldy and spread airborne mold spores throughout the home via the ventilation system. 
• There is evidence of microbial growth or mold on the filter. Mold spores already infiltrating the home via the HVAC system are not only bad for the unit itself, but they can pose a health hazard for the family, ranging from an irritated respiratory system to a serious allergic reaction. The musty smell produced by a moldy HVAC filter is also unpleasant and may take a while to completely eradicate from inside the home. If you discover that you have moldy air filter, it’s important to have the cause investigated further. An InterNACHI inspector or HVAC technician can help determine the problem so that it doesn’t recur.

Tips on Changing the Filter

• Turn off the unit before replacing the filter.
• Use the right filter for your unit and make sure it’s not damaged out of the package.
• Follow the directions for your unit to make sure you’re installing the filter properly. For example, many filters use different colors for the front and back (or upstream and downstream flow) so that they’re not installed backwards.
• Make sure there aren’t any gaps around the filter frame. If this is the case, you may have the wrong size filter, or the filter itself may be defective or damaged.
• Use a rag to clean up any residual dust before and after you replace the filter.
• Securely replace any levers, gaskets and/or seals.
• Turn the unit on and observe it while it’s operating to make sure the filter stays in place.
• Note the date of filter replacement in a convenient location for the next time you inspect it. A filter that becomes dirty enough to change within a short period of time may indicate a problem with the unit or ventilation system, so monitoring how often the filter requires changing is important information for your technician to have.

Call a technician for servicing if:

• Your unit fails to turn back on.
• The fan is slow or makes excessive noise, or the fins are bent.
• The coils are excessively dusty or clogged.
• You notice moisture intrusion from an unknown source anywhere in the system.

Homeowners who take care of the easy task of changing their HVAC filter can help prevent system downtime and avoidable expenses, as well as keep their families living and breathing comfortably. Your InterNACHI home inspector can provide more useful tips and reminders during your annual home maintenance inspection.

From Homeowner Maintenance: Changing the HVAC Filter - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/change-hvac-filter.htm#ixzz2iCn45tY6

Aluminum Wiring

Between approximately 1965 and 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes substituted for copper branch-circuit wiring in residential electrical systems due to the sudden escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, inherent weaknesses were discovered in the metal that lead to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. Neglected connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures containing aluminum wiring become increasingly dangerous over time. Poor connections cause wiring to overheat, creating a potential fire hazard. In addition, the presence of single-strand aluminum wiring may void a home’s insurance policies. Inspectors may instruct their clients to talk with their insurance agents about whether the presence of aluminum wiring in their home is a problem that requires changes to their policy language.

• On April, 28, 1974, two people were killed in a house fire in Hampton Bays, New York. Fire officials determined that the fire was caused by a faulty aluminum wire connection at an outlet.
• According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), "Homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 ['old technology' aluminum wire] are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than is a home wired with copper."

Aluminum as a Metal

Aluminum possesses certain qualities that, compared with copper, make it an undesirable material as an electrical conductor. These qualities all lead to loose connections, where fire hazards become likely. These qualities are as follows:

• higher electrical resistance. Aluminum has a high resistance to electrical current flow, which means that, given the same amperage, aluminum conductors must be of a larger diameter than would be required by copper conductors.
• less ductile. Aluminum will fatigue and break down more readily when subjected to bending and other forms of abuse than copper, which is more ductile. Fatigue will cause the wire to break down internally and will increasingly resist electrical current, leading to a buildup of excessive heat.
• galvanic corrosion. In the presence of moisture, aluminum will undergo galvanic corrosion when it comes into contact with certain dissimilar metals.
• oxidation. Exposure to oxygen in the air causes deterioration to the outer surface of the wire. This process is called oxidation. Aluminum wire is more easily oxidized than copper wire, and the compound formed by this process – aluminum oxide – is less conductive than copper oxide. As time passes, oxidation can deteriorate connections and present a fire hazard. 
• greater malleability. Aluminum is soft and malleable, meaning it is highly sensitive to compression. After a screw has been over-tightened on aluminum wiring, for instance, the wire will continue to deform or “flow” even after the tightening has ceased. This deformation will create a loose connection and increase electrical resistance in that location.
• greater thermal expansion and contraction. Even more than copper, aluminum expands and contracts with changes in temperature. Over time, this process will cause connections between the wire and the device to degrade. For this reason, aluminum wires should never be inserted into the “stab,” “bayonet” or “push-in” type terminations found on the back of many light switches and outlets.
• excessive vibration. Electrical current vibrates as it passes through wiring. This vibration is more extreme in aluminum than it is in copper, and, as time passes, it can cause connections to loosen.

Identifying Aluminum Wiring

• Aluminum wires are the color of aluminum and are easily discernible from copper and other metals.
• Since the early 1970s, wiring-device binding terminals for use with aluminum wire have been marked CO/ALR, which stands for “copper/aluminum revised."
• Look for the word "aluminum" or the initials "AL" on the plastic wire jacket. Where wiring is visible, such as in the attic or electrical panel, inspectors can look for printed or embossed letters on the plastic wire jacket. Aluminum wire may have the word "aluminum," or a specific brand name, such as "Kaiser Aluminum," marked on the wire jacket. Where labels are hard to read, a light can be shined along the length of the wire.
• When was the house built? Homes built or expanded between 1965 and 1973 are more likely to have aluminum wiring than houses built before or after those years.

Options for Correction

Aluminum wiring should be evaluated by a qualified electrician who is experienced in evaluating and correcting aluminum wiring problems. Not all licensed electricians are properly trained to deal with defective aluminum wiring. The CPSC recommends the following two methods for correction for aluminum wiring:

• Rewire the home with copper wire. While this is the most effective method, rewiring is expensive and impractical, in most cases.
• Use copalum crimps. The crimp connector repair consists of attaching a piece of copper wire to the existing aluminum wire branch circuit with a specially designed metal sleeve and powered crimping tool. This special connector can be properly installed only with the matching AMP tool. An insulating sleeve is placed around the crimp connector to complete the repair. Although effective, they are expensive (typically around $50 per outlet, switch or light fixture).

Although not recommended by the CPSC as methods of permanent repair for defective aluminum wiring, the following methods may be considered:

• application of anti-oxidant paste. This method can be used for wires that are multi-stranded or wires that are too large to be effectively crimped.
• pigtailing. This method involves attaching a short piece of copper wire to the aluminum wire with a twist-on connector. the copper wire is connected to the switch, wall outlet or other termination device. This method is only effective if the connections between the aluminum wires and the copper pigtails are extremely reliable. Pigtailing with some types of connectors, even though Underwriters Laboratories might presently list them for the application, can lead to increasing the hazard. Also, beware that pigtailing will increase the number of connections, all of which must be maintained. Aluminum Wiring Repair (AWR), Inc., of Aurora, Colorado, advises that pigtailing can be useful as a temporary repair or in isolated applications, such as the installation of a ceiling fan.
• CO/ALR connections. According to the CPSC, these devices cannot be used for all parts of the wiring system, such as ceiling-mounted light fixtures or permanently wired appliances and, as such, CO/ALR connections cannot constitute a complete repair. Also, according to AWR, these connections often loosen over time.
• alumiconn. Although AWR believes this method may be an effective temporary fix, they are wary that it has little history, and that they are larger than copper crimps and are often incorrectly applied. 
• Replace certain failure-prone types of devices and connections with others that are more compatible with aluminum wire.
• Remove the ignitable materials from the vicinity of the connections.

Aluminum wiring should be identified and inspected. Having an home inspection is a great way to find out whether your house has aluminum wiring. For more information please contact us!

Asbestos!

Here is a great article from InterNACHI. All about ASBESTOS!

What is Asbestos?

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance. InterNACHI home inspectors can supplement their knowledge with the information offered in this guide.

How Can Asbestos Affect My Health?

From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer in the forms of mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, and asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increase with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.

Where Can I Find Asbestos and When Can it Be a Problem?

Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos. Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:

• steam pipes, boilers and furnace ducts insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly;
• resilient floor tiles (vinyl asbestos, asphalt and rubber), the backing on vinyl sheet flooring, and adhesives used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers, and so may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal;
• cement sheet, millboard and paper used as insulation around furnaces and wood-burning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers, and so may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation;
•  door gaskets in furnaces, wood stoves and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use;
• soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly or water-damaged material may release fibers, and so will sanding, drilling or scraping the material;
• patching and joint compounds for walls and ceilings, and textured paints. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos fibers;
• asbestos cement roofing, shingles and siding. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, dilled or cut;
• artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces, and other older household products, such as fireproof gloves, stove-top pads, ironing board covers and certain hairdryers; and automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets.

Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found in the Home

• Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
• Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
• Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
• Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
• Older products, such as stove-top pads, may have some asbestos compounds.
• Walls and floors around wood-burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard or cement sheets.
• Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
• Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
• Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

What Should Be Done About Asbestos in the Home?

If you think asbestos may be in your home, don't panic. Usually, the best thing to do is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. There is no danger unless the asbestos is disturbed and fibers are released and then inhaled into the lungs. Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don't touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage, such as tears, abrasions or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow. Sometimes, the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads and ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental or other appropriate agencies to find out proper handling and disposal procedures. If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present.

How to Identify Materials that Contain Asbestos

You can't tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos, or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. If you nevertheless choose to take the samples yourself, take care not to release asbestos fibers into the air or onto yourself. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled. Anyone who samples asbestos-containing materials should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before sampling and, at a minimum, should observe the following procedures:

• Make sure no one else is in the room when sampling is done.
• Wear disposable gloves or wash hands after sampling.
• Shut down any heating or cooling systems to minimize the spread of any released fibers.
• Do not disturb the material any more than is needed to take a small sample.
• Place a plastic sheet on the floor below the area to be sampled.
• Wet the material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent before taking the sample. The water/detergent mist will reduce the release of asbestos fibers.
• Carefully cut a piece from the entire depth of the material using a small knife, corer or other sharp object. Place the small piece into a clean container (a 35-mm film canister, small glass or plastic vial, or high-quality resealable plastic bag).
• Tightly seal the container after the sample is in it. 
• Carefully dispose of the plastic sheet. Use a damp paper towel to clean up any material on the outside of the container or around the area sampled. Dispose of asbestos materials according to state and local procedures.
• Label the container with an identification number and clearly state when and where the sample was taken.
• Patch the sampled area with the smallest possible piece of duct tape to prevent fiber release.
• Send the sample to an asbestos analysis laboratory accredited by the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). Your state or local health department may also be able to help. 

How to Manage an Asbestos Problem

If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal. Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material. Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so that fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely. Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent the release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket. With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make removal of asbestos later (if found to be necessary) more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor. Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos. Minor repairs should also be done by professionals, since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.

Repairs 

Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended, since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed. If you nevertheless choose to do minor repairs, you should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before doing anything. Contact your state or local health department or regional EPA office for information about asbestos training programs in your area. Your local school district may also have information about asbestos professionals and training programs for school buildings. Even if you have completed a training program, do not try anything more than minor repairs. Before undertaking minor repairs, carefully examine the area around the damage to make sure it is stable. As a general rule, any damaged area which is bigger than the size of your hand is not considered a minor repair.

Before undertaking minor repairs, be sure to follow all the precautions described previously for sampling asbestos material. Always wet the asbestos material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent. Commercial products designed to fill holes and seal damaged areas are available. Small areas of material, such as pipe insulation, can be covered by wrapping a special fabric, such as re-wettable glass cloth, around it. These products are available from stores (listed in the telephone directory under "Safety Equipment and Clothing") which specialize in asbestos materials and safety items.

Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.

Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They and What Can They Do? 

Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.

Asbestos professionals can conduct home inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise on the corrections that are needed, as well as who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair and remove asbestos materials.

Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so that there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.

The federal government offers training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also offer or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.

If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable and accredited -- especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.

Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described in federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removal or performed it improperly. Unnecessary removal is a waste of money. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.

In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work.

Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos.

Caution! 

Do not dust, sweep or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These actions will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet-mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractors.

Attached Garages

This blog is all about the garage and common issues we find during home inspections in regards to safety and fire concerns. Garages are a common area for fires due to the likeliness of flammable materials, such as motor oils, exhaust fumes, paint thinners, varnish, camping fuels and other flammable liquids that are commonly stored in garages. Here is some valuable tips and advice that every home owner should know!

The following tips can help prevent garage fires and their spread:

• If the garage allows access to the attic, make sure a hatch covers this access.
• The walls and ceiling should be fire-rated. Unfortunately, it will be difficult for untrained homeowners to tell if their walls are Type X fire-rated gypsum. 
• The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and other potentially flammable items are extremely dangerous if they are strewn about the garage floor.
• Use light bulbs with the proper wattage, and do not overload electrical outlets.
• Tape down all cords and wires so they are not twisted or accidentally yanked.

If there is a door that connects the garage to the living area, consider the following:

• Do not install a pet door in the door! Flames can more easily spread into the living area through a pet door, especially if it’s made of plastic.
• Does the door have a window? If it does, it should be fire-rated.
• The door should be self-closing. While it may be inconvenient, especially while carrying groceries into the house from the car, doors should be self-closing. You never know when a fire will happen, and it would be unfortunate to accidentally leave the door open while a fire is starting in the garage.
• Check the joints and open spaces around the door. Are they tightly sealed? Any openings at all can allow dangerous fumes, such as carbon monoxide or gasoline vapor, to enter the living area. 

Concerning items placed on the floor, you should check for the following:

• Store your flammable liquids in clearly labeled, self-closing containers, and only in small amounts. Keep them away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights and other sources of heat or flame.
• Never store propane tanks indoors. If they catch fire, they can explode. Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors.

There are plenty of things that you can do to prevent garage fires from spreading to the rest of the house, or to keep them from starting in the first place. If you have any concerns about your garage, why not have it inspected by a qualified home inspector or contractor! If you have any concerns feel free to contact us anytime, we’d be glad to help.

Be sure that the walls and ceilings are sealed!

What Really Matters on a Home Inspection

Buying a home? The process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind, but it often has the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information over a short time. This often includes a written report, checklist, photographs, environmental reports, and what the inspector himself says during the inspection. All this combined with the seller's disclosure and what you notice yourself make the experience even more overwhelming. What should you do?

Relax...your House CSI inspector is a true professional, being a member of InterNACHI, you can trust that we are the most highly trained in the industry. Most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about. However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

1.  major defects: An example of this would be a structural failure;
2.  things that lead to major defects: a small roof-flashing leak, for example;
3.  things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home; and 
4.  safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electric panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed. Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. Realize that sellers are under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in the report. No home is perfect. Keep things in perspective. Do not kill your deal over things that do not matter. It is inappropriate to demand that a seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed on the seller's disclosure, or nit-picky items.

If you are considering a home inspection in the GTA, contact us at House CSI!

Stucco Removal Video! (EIFS)

Stucco! People just love stucco....Not sure what stucco is? Well most likely the common stucco you see around your neighbourhood is a modern form of stucco known as EIFS. This stands for Exterior Insulating and Finishing Systems, it is also sometimes referred to as synthetic stucco.

This finish usually consists of plastic foam insulation panels that are glued to the sheathing of the house. The stucco finish is usually applied with a base coat and then a finish coat which can be sprayed on, or rolled on. The final coat gives the house the colour and texture.

This quick video shows you exactly what an EIFS finish looks like....and what it looks like when it’s being ripped apart! Notice how thin the actual finish is.... Note: This was being done to create a space for a new fireplace.

Pre-Inspection Checklist

The home inspection is a common part of  selling a house. This is usually performed for the potential buyers and most often these potential buyers use the inspections findings to their advantage to re-negotiate the price of the home. For those selling their home.....here is a simple checklist of common items that home inspectors find and report on. Often these findings can be fixed for as little as $20!!

Most of these items are an easy DIY project.

House CSI

Home Inspection Promo Video

We finally finished our first video! This is just a promo for our homepage....hopefully we'll keep it up and bring you more! 

For more info on home inspections and the services we provide....please visit our website at www.housecsi.com Thanks!

Infrared Cameras & Moisture!

During a recent home inspection/renovation consultation we encountered a small leak on the main floor. The main floor area was being ripped up and is in the process of a serious renovation so we could easily see all the electrical, plumbing and ducting. We spotted the leak, which happened to be the old kitchen drain pipe that had never been connected together properly! It had been this way for over 40 years and never leaked, but during the renovation it must have been knocked around and the improperly installed connector had become completely loose.

Below the main floor area is a recently re-finished laundry room, so we thought we should probably go down to the basement and see if any water damage has occurred and take some thermal shots while we’re at it, just to show you how thermal imaging works with moisture damage. As you can see from the regular photo, there are no signs of any moisture issues....this leak had probably been leaking for a few hours. If the floor above had been covered, we would never suspect any moisture issues at all. Take a look at the pictures with the thermal camera, clearly it tells us another story!

The laundry room, directly below the renovation above and the leak. No signs of any moisture damage!!

Now this is telling us we have a serious moisture concern! We love these cameras!

The leak 12 hours after it had been fixed. The drywall  is almost completely dry, the floor joists  are still wet. This area had completely dried out after 24 hours.  This is because the floor above was open and there was an abundance of air-flow was helping this dry out. If it had been covered this would of easily stayed wet and caused damage to the laundry room ceiling.

The next shots are of a basement ceiling that has signs of moisture damage. In this situation we had no access to what’s behind the drywall, so we have to assume at some point recently there has been a leak. We decided to pull out the thermal camera to see if there were any signs of moisture as well as our moisture meter. COMPLETELY DRY! 

Not every situation tells you exactly what's really happening, having a thermal imaging camera and moisture meter is essential in the home inspection process. We hope this blog helps you understand how these tools work and how they benefit all parties involved during the home buying/selling process. For more information please contact us, we'd love to help!

A basement ceiling with clear signs of damage.  Possibly a moisture concern!

And NOTHING! So whatever was the concern is no longer a problem.  We confirmed this with our moisture meter as well.

Formaldehyde in the Home

Here is a great read all about Formaldehyde....Things you may not know!

Formaldehyde is a colorless, pungent-smelling chemical widely used in industries that manufacture building materials and numerous household products. Thus, it may be present in substantial concentrations in indoor environments. 

Where indoors may formaldehyde be found?

• Pressed-wood products (such as hardwood plywood wall paneling, particle board and fiberboard), and furniture made with these pressed-wood products. Mobile homes are especially at risk for indoor formaldehyde pollution because of their abundance of composite wood in construction, and relatively compact interior space; 
• Carpet backing and urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI). In the 1970s, many homes were insulated with UFFI as an energy-conservation measure before it was discovered that UFFI contained dangerously high levels of formaldehyde. Fortunately, formaldehyde emissions in this product decline over time, so older houses with UFFI are unlikely to have high levels of formaldehyde now. This insulation is not very common in modern housing; 
• Tobacco smoke; 
• Durable-press drapes and other textiles; 
• Un-vented, fuel-burning appliances, such gas stoves and kerosene space heaters; and glues. 

Is it dangerous?

Four years after concern arose over high levels of formaldehyde found in some FEMA trailers, there is still a great deal of confusion regarding permissible levels of airborne formaldehyde in indoor environments.

• Formaldehyde is known to cause the following conditions: 
• watery eyes; 
• burning sensations in the eyes and throat; 
• nausea; 
• severe allergic reactions; and cancer. 

Uncertainty remains as to how to compare measured air concentrations of formaldehyde to cancer incidence. No definitive "high risk" level can be drawn because many other factors besides formaldehyde exposure play a role in the development of cancer. In general, however, the lower the level and shorter the duration of exposure, the less risk of cancer and other health effects there are. 

• wheezing, coughing and difficulty breathing; 
• asthma attacks; fatigue; skin rash; 

In 1992, the California Air Resources Board (CARB) declared formaldehyde a "toxic air contaminant," meaning that there is no safe level of exposure. In June 2004, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) reclassified formaldehyde from “probably carcinogenic to humans” to “carcinogenic to humans,” specifically concerning nasopharyngeal (upper throat) cancer, while the National Toxicology Program (NTP) continues to classify formaldehyde as “reasonably anticipated to be a carcinogen in humans” for nasopharyngeal cancer. 

Steps to Reduce Exposure

• Use exterior-grade pressed-wood products (lower-emitting, because they contain phenol resins, not urea resins). 
• Use air conditioning and dehumidifiers to maintain a moderate temperature and reduce humidity levels. 
• Increase ventilation, particularly after bringing new sources of formaldehyde indoors. 
• Seal non-laminated surfaces of products containing formaldehyde with paints, varnish or polyurethane-like materials. 

Dormers

This blog isn't really ‘home inspection’ related, but I thought I’d post something on dormers to give those that don’t know a basic overview of what they are.

A dormer is a common element residential house construction. It is a framed structure that protrudes from a plane of a sloping roof. Dormers are either framed in as part of the original construction or can be part of a later addition to a building. Dormers create more headroom and allow the roof to be used as ‘ usable’ space.

Dormers can also be strictly decorative, these are known as ‘blind dormers’ or ‘false dormers’. These types of dormers are only seen from the outside and offer no extra room or usable space.

Dormers can take on many shapes, sizes and styles, depending on the house they compliment. 

For more information please contact us at House CSI.

Eyebrow dormer.

Spring Water Damage Concerns

It's springtime! This means the snow will be melting and April showers will be on the way. This is also the most common time of year for basements to flood. Basements are typically the area of your home that is most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil. Wet basements can cause problems that can lead to toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse and termite damage.

There are some very simple ways to prevent water from entering your basement.

• Install and maintain your gutters and downspouts so that they divert all rainwater and snow melt away from the foundation of the building. We recommend at least 10 feet so that the water cannot flow back towards the building. 
• Downspouts should discharge water above grade. Below grade downspouts should be capped and repaired. 
• The finished grade of the property should be sloped away from the building. Low spots that may lead to water pooling should be evened out to prevent the possibility of standing water close to the foundation. 
• Shallow ditches called swales should be used in conditions where one or more sides of the building face an upward slope. Swales will help divert this water to another side of the structure where the grade is sloped away.

These illustrations will help explain these simple water prevention techniques. Inspect the exterior of your property and be sure to keep your basement dry this spring.  Please contact us for more information and advice.

Spray Foam Insulation

This is a common topic that constantly comes up with clients during home inspections. I figured I’d post a blog all about spray foam insulation and why you as a home owner need to know about it.

Beautiful!

Spray foam insulation is different to your traditional fibreglass insulation in that it is a two-part mixture that is sprayed out the tip of a gun. This expanding foam is great for insulating attics, wall cavities, concrete slabs and just about anything that needs insulating around your home. 

Spray foam also had the highest R-value of all insulations available. R-value is known as thermal resistance and is a way to understand how good insulation performs. The higher the R-value of an insulation product lets you know how effective the product may be over another similar product. Closed cell spray foam insulation typically has an R-value of R-5 to –R-6 per inch. Typical fibreglass insulation has an R-value of R-2 to R-4 per inch.

In comes in two types:

Open Cell Insulation:

This type of spray foam insulation is exactly as it sounds. The cells it is composed of are not completely closed. It still is a good air barrier, but it not considered a vapour barrier. It is more sponge like and is not recommended for exterior use.

Closed Cell Insulation:

This type of spray foam insulation is composed of completely closed cells. The foam is more dense than open cell and is a both an air barrier as well as a vapour barrier. This product can be used anywhere in the home and is becoming a popular choice for new residential construction.

The benefits of using spray foam insulation:

• Savings on your homes energy costs & utility bills. 
• Better thermal resistance. Higher R-value per inch. 
• Protects buildings against moisture, which reduces the chance of mold and mildew. 
• Reduces noise & provides a very comfortable home that is easy to maintain a constant temperature. 

Spray foam insulation is great product and is highly recommended for making your home more energy efficient. It does however come at a higher price than traditional fibreglass insulation and may not be suitable for everyone. If you are considering using spray foam insulation on your home please contact a few local insulation contractors and make sure you find out what products work best for you and your budget.

If you have any questions about your home or potential inspection please feel free to contact us anytime. House CSI

Thermal Imaging & Building Diagnostics

Thermal Imaging for Home Inspections & Building Diagnostics

Infrared cameras translate the heat signatures of objects into colors on a gradient scale, with higher temperatures appearing as lighter colors, and lower temperatures and wet areas appearing as darker colors. Also known as thermal imaging and thermography, IR technology captures the light that exists just outside the visible spectrum. Thermal images show surface-heat variations, which is why an IR camera is such a diverse tool for commercial and home inspectors that can be used for a variety of applications. Abnormally hot electrical components and connections can be viewed during an electrical inspection. Areas of moisture that may lead to leaks and structural damage can be located based on apparent temperature differences. Heat loss and air leakage in a building envelope, and even areas of insufficient insulation, can be pinpointed quickly and accurately during an energy audit.

House CSI is proud to offer Infrared technology to all of our home inspections and consider this a vital tool for providing you with the best inspection possible. For more information on thermal imaging please contact us.

The images below will give you a good idea of how these cameras work.

Normal camera.

With IR camera.

                                               

OSB vs. Plywood

Here's another great post about two common house building materials. Hope you enjoy the info!

Plywood.

OSB.

Oriented strand board (OSB) and plywood are wood structural panels made by compressing and gluing pieces of wood together. While OSB and plywood appear similar and are generally interchangeable, the different ways that each material is manufactured contribute to each having its own unique strengths and weaknesses.

What are they, and how are they made?

OSB is manufactured from heat-cured adhesives and rectangular- shaped wood strands that are arranged in cross-oriented layers. Produced in large, continuous mats, OSB is a solid-panel product of consistent quality with few voids or gaps. The finished product is an engineered wood panel that shares many of the strength and performance characteristics of plywood.

Plywood is made from thin sheets of veneer (layers of wood that are peeled from a spinning log) that are cross-laminated and glued together with a hot press. Throughout the thickness of the panel, the grain of each layer is positioned perpendicular to the adjacent layer. The finished product is made from an odd number of layers so that a balance is maintained around its central access. Since it is made from whole layers of logs rather than small strands, plywood has a more consistent and less rough appearance than OSB.

A few facts about OSB and plywood:

• While OSB developed fairly recently, it became more popular than plywood in North America by 2000. Today, nearly twice as much OSB as plywood is produced in North America. 
• Outside of North America, OSB is not commonly used in construction. In 2005, the combined production of OSB in Europe and Latin America was just 3.5 billion square feet – less than seven times as much as was produced in North America that year. 
• While both products are made from different materials, and some builders strongly prefer one or the other, OSB and plywood are both manufactured according to the same performance standards. 
• OSB can be made from narrower, faster growing trees than plywood. 

In favor of OSB:

• OSB can be manufactured into panels that are larger than plywood. 
• OSB is more uniform, so there are fewer soft spots, such as those that can occur in plywood. 
• OSB is less expensive than plywood. To build a typical 2,400-square foot home, OSB may cost $700 less than plywood. 
• OSB is considered by many to be a “green” building material because it can be made from smaller-diameter trees, such as poplars, that are often farmed. Plywood production, by contrast, requires larger-diameter trees from old-growth forests. 
• Plywood has a tendency to delaminate, especially in hot climates such as Florida. 

In favor of plywood: 

• While plywood and OSB both off-gas formaldehyde, OSB off-gasses more of the carcinogenic gas. Plywood, OSB, and other engineered wood products that contain glue can be stored outdoors for several weeks before construction so that much of the dangerous gasses are vented safely into the outdoors. 
• OSB weighs more than plywood. One 23/32-inch 4x8-foot plywood piece weighs approximately 67 pounds, while a piece of OSB of the same dimensions weighs approximately 78 pounds. The increased weight of OSB means that it is harder to install and it will put more stress on the house.
• Compared to plywood, OSB swells more when it comes into contact with water, especially at panel edges. Swell is generally greater in OSB than in plywood due to the release of compaction stress in OSB created during the pressing of wood chips into panels. Swollen plywood will return to its nominal thickness as the wood dries, while OSB will remain permanently swollen, to some degree. Swelling is a nuisance because it can uplift whatever materials lie above, such as tile or carpet. 
• Plywood floors are stiffer than OSB floors by a factor of approximately 10%. As a result, OSB floors are more likely to squeak due to floor movement, cause hard floor surfaces to crack (such as tile), and result in soft, spongy floors. 
• Nails and screws are more likely to remain in place more firmly in plywood than in OSB. 
• OSB retains water longer than plywood does, which makes decay more likely in OSB than in plywood. Of course, tree species plays a large role in this determination. OSB made from aspen or poplar is relatively susceptible to decay. In one of the biggest consumer class-action lawsuits ever, Louisiana-Pacific (LP), a building materials manufacturer, was forced to pay $375 million to 75,000 homeowners who complained of decaying OSB in their homes. 

Note: Much of the information above that favors plywood over OSB is summarized from a study by Georgia-Pacific, a building materials manufacturer. While Georgia-Pacific manufactures both materials and thus has no obvious bias, the study does not state whether it compared multiple brands of OSB and plywood or merely their own.

Please contact your Toronto area home inspectors for more info or questions.

Who is your Home Inspector?

Just a little reminder on how important it is to do your homework when choosing your next home inspector. Do your own research and choose wisely as there is a lot of choice out there!

‘Quality Home Inspections by Inspectors who have actually built homes!’

This is our slogan/motto and something that we are very proud of!

You would be surprised to know that most home inspection companies have inspectors working for them that have never actually built homes. To us that sounds absolutely crazy and something that you want to know before putting your trust within that person/company.

If we can suggest anything to potential clients, it would be to find out what your home inspector did before they became a ‘home inspector’. Hire someone you are comfortable with and get yourself the quality home inspection you deserve on what will likely be the most expensive purchase of your life.

Please visit House CSI for more info. Feel free to contact us anytime.

Inspecting Brick Houses

We all know how common brick houses are in here in Ontario, but what most people in Ontario don't realize is that there are two very different types of brick houses, brick veneer and solid masonry. Here is a wonderful article that help clarifies the differences between the two types. Enjoy! 

Solid Masonry

Solid masonry construction is also called ‘Solid Brick', ‘Double Brick', and sometimes ‘Brick and Block'. In its most common form, a solid masonry wall consists of an outer layer of brick and an inner layer of brick (a layer of brick is called a ‘wythe' in masonry circles).

The reason why solid masonry is a more accurate description than solid brick or double brick is because the inner wythe may not be brick. Because the inner wythe will never be seen, concrete or cinder block is sometimes substituted for brick.

As a brick wall increases in height, there is more and more danger that the inner wythe will separate from the outer wythe. To hold the two wythe's together, header bricks are installed, usually every six rows. From the outside, header bricks look like regular bricks except they are shorter. In reality, they are the same size as a normal brick, however they are installed sideways so that the end of the brick is visible from the exterior of the building. The header bricks act as a bridge between the outer wythe and the inner wythe and prevent the two from separating.

Therefore, most solid masonry walls display header bricks in every 6th row or course. Sometimes, every brick in the course is a header brick, however there are a number of common patterns. It is not unusual to see two long bricks followed by two short ones then two long ones then two short ones. (The long bricks, by the way, are called stretchers.) Sometimes bricks are installed over windows with their long face parallel to the wall but the brick standing on its end. These are called soldiers.

It is possible to build a solid masonry wall using metal ties to hold the two wythes of masonry together. When this is done, no header bricks will be visible and the wall can easily be mistaken for a brick veneer wall.

So What's so Good About a Solid Masonry Wall?

There is no question that the big bad wolf will find this wall the hardest to blow down. Structurally, solid masonry walls are very strong and can, if properly maintained, provide hundreds of years of service.

  

                      

What is Brick Veneer?

If solid masonry is so good, why is it that most brick houses built in the last 30 years are brick veneer construction?

Firstly, we have to understand the difference between brick veneer and solid masonry. The biggest difference is that with solid masonry, the brick is holding up the house. With brick veneer, the house is holding up the brick!

When we say brick veneer, we don't mean those little thin slices that you glue on your kitchen wall. We mean an honest to goodness brick. However, the wall is only one wythe thick. Behind the brick veneer is a wood frame wall which is actually holding up the house. The brick veneer is, in effect, siding!

Insulation

Brick veneer became the norm when building codes began to require insulation in the exterior walls. One of the best insulators is air. Most good insulation does nothing but trap air; that's why most insulations are light and fluffy. Brick is not exactly light and fluffy. Therefore it's not really a very good insulator. A brick veneer house then, is really a wood frame house where the cavity between the studs in the wall can be insulated.

The walls are built, covered with sheathing and often insulated before the brick is even installed. As the brick is being installed, metal ties are nailed onto the wood frame wall. It is important that they be nailed into the studs and not just into the sheathing. The metal ties are then bent so that they are horizontal where they become imbedded in the mortar joints as the brick veneer wall is constructed. The brick veneer is built on the outer edge of the foundation wall so that a one inch air space remains between the brick veneer and the sheathing.

How Waterproof Is Brick?

The short answer is "not very". With a wind driven rain, moisture will pass right through a brick wall. The one inch air space behind the brick allows this water to run down the back surface of the brick. At the bottom of the wall cavity, a plastic or metal flashing collects the water and allows it to drain out through weep holes. You'll find weep holes spaced at approximately 32" (every fourth brick) along the top of foundation walls and above doors and windows.

Not only do the weep holes let the water drain out of the wall, but they also allow the wind to get behind the brick and pressurize the one inch airspace between the back of the brick and the sheathing. Believe it or not, this extra air pressure reduces the amount of rain that gets forced through the wall.

                          

So Which is Better?

Well that depends on your criteria. Solid masonry walls are certainly stronger; however brick veneer walls are plenty strong and are certainly better insulated. In the big scheme of things, the differences between the two types of construction should not be important enough to affect a purchase decision. Always use a qualified, trusted home inspector to help give you all the necessary information so you can make the right decision.

House CSI

Ice Dams!

Winter can be a beautiful thing! Just look at all those spectacular icicles hanging off the roofs around your neighbourhood. They may look pretty, but those icicles can mean trouble for your home. So why exactly do icicles form at the roof edge? And what is really going on to cause this occurrence. 

What is an Ice Dam?

An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow from draining. As water backs up behind the dam, it can leak through the roof and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas.

How do ice dams form?

Ice dams are formed by an interaction between snow cover, outside temperatures, and heat lost through the roof. Specifically, there must be snow on the roof, warm portions of the upper roof, and cold portions of the lower roof (at freezing or below). Melted snow from the warmer areas will refreeze when it flows down to the colder portions, forming an ice dam.

Although the primary contributor to snow melting is heat loss from the building's interior, solar radiation can also provide sufficient heat to melt snow on a roof. For example, in southern Canada, enough sunlight can be transmitted through 6 inches of snow cover on a clear and sunny day to cause melting at the roof's surface even when the outside temperature is -10° C, with an attic temperature of -5° C.

Gutters do not cause ice dams to form, contrary to popular belief. Gutters do, however, help concentrate ice from the dam in a vulnerable area, where parts of the house can peel away under the weight of the ice and come crashing to the ground.

Problems caused by Ice Dams:

• Ice dams are problematic because they force water to leak from the roof into the building envelope. This may lead to: 
• Rotted roof decking, exterior and interior walls, and framing; 
• Respiratory illnesses (allergies, asthma, etc.) caused by mold growth; 
• Reduced effectiveness of insulation. Wet insulation doesn’t work well, and chronically wet insulation will not decompress even when it dries. Without working insulation, even more heat will escape to the roof where more snow will melt, causing more ice dams which, in turn, will lead to leaks; and 
• Peeling paint. Water from the leak will infiltrate wall cavities and cause paint to peel and blister. This may happen long after the ice dam has melted and thus not appear directly related to the ice dam. 

Prevention

• Keep the entire roof cold. This can be accomplished by implementing the following measures: 
• Install a metal roof. Ice formations may occur on metal roofs, but the design of the roof will not allow the melting water to penetrate the roof's surface. Also, snow and ice are more likely to slide off of a smooth, metal surface than asphalt shingles. 
• Seal all air leaks in the attic floor, such as those surrounding wire and plumbing penetrations, attic hatches, and ceiling light fixtures leading to the attic from the living space below. 
• Increase the thickness of insulation on the attic floor, duct-work, and chimneys that pass through the attic. 
• Move or elevate exhaust systems that terminate just above the roof, where they are likely to melt snow. 
• A minimum of 3" air space is recommended between the top of insulation and roof sheathing in sloped (cathedral) ceilings. 
• Remove snow from the roof. This can be accomplished safely using a roof rake from the ground. Be careful not to harm roofing materials or to dislodge dangerous icicles. 
• Create channels in the ice by hosing it with warm water. Because this process intentionally adds water to the roof, this should be done only in emergencies where a great deal of water is already flowing through the roof, and when temperatures are warm enough that the hose water can drain before it freezes. 

Ice dams are mainly caused by inadequate attic insulation, but homeowners can take certain preventative measures to ensure that they are rare. If your roof has an abnormal amount of icicles during the winter, your attic may be causing the problem. We highly recommend you have your attic inspected by a qualified home inspector to further evaluate your situation. Please see my post from last year about attic insulation form more information. (http://www.toronto-home-inspector.blogspot.com/2012/01/is-your-attic-properly-insulated.html)

Please contact House CSI for more info!

Knob & Tube Wiring

Knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings, in common use in North America from about 1880 to the 1940's. The system is considered obsolete and can be a safety hazard, although some of the fear associated with it is undeserved.

It requires two wires (normally a black one and a white one) to create a circuit. With modern wiring, these two wires (along with a ground wire) are bundled together in a single plastic sheathing. Older knob and tube wiring was installed so that the black wire and the white wire ran separately. It was installed in houses up until about 1950. Modern wiring runs directly through holes in the structural components (such as floor joists). Knob and tube wiring used protective ceramic tubes placed in the holes to prevent the wire from chafing against the woodwork. Modern wiring uses staples to hold the wiring against structural members. 

Knob and tube wiring used more elaborate ceramic knobs to clamp the wire to the structural member. Connections between modern wires are completed within enclosed junction boxes. Knob and tube wiring had visible connections. The wires were spliced and soldered together and then wrapped with electrical tape. Ceramic knobs were used to secure the wires so that anyone inadvertently tugging on the wire would not be tugging on the electrical connection. Modern wiring is typically #14 gauge copper wire and capable of handling 15 amps. Knob and tube wiring is often #12 gauge copper wire and can handle 20 amps. Note: Even though some knob and tube wiring is capable of handling 20 amps, we suggest that it be protected by 15 amp fuses because, in all likelihood, some modern #14 gauge wire may be connected to the older #12 gauge wiring.

From the above description, it becomes pretty obvious that knob and tube wiring is not necessarily dangerous. Knob and tube wiring which was installed properly, and has not been abused, can provide many more years of service. The biggest problem with knob and tube wiring has nothing to do with the original wiring. It has everything to do with what has happened after the fact.

Most old houses do not have as many electrical circuits as new houses. If a circuit became overtaxed and 15 amp fuses were constantly blowing, some ill informed home owners would put in 25 or 30 amp fuses to “solve” the problem. Allowing 25 or 30 amps to flow through a wire which was not intended to handle that much electricity, causes the wire to overheat. This can cause the wire and the insulation to become brittle. Some home owners also decided to add additional outlets in the house and tie the new outlets into the old wiring. Instead of making proper connections which are soldered and appropriately protected, many home owners did their own sub-standard work. They would get out the pliers and a paring knife and whittle away at the wires until a connection was made. Instead of wrapping the connection with proper electrical tape, they used hockey tape, masking tape, scotch tape or even band-aids. It is wiring that has been abused that is potentially dangerous. Knob and tube wiring, on its own, is not inherently a problem. Some would argue that knob and tube wiring does not have a ground conductor. We would remind them that even modern wiring installed between 1950 and 1960 does not have a ground conductor.

A ground conductor is necessary if you are plugging in appliances that have a 3-prong plug. If however, the knob and tube wiring is restricted to bedrooms, living room, dining room, et cetera, this creates no special hazard. Plugging a two prong lamp, TV, or clock into an old two prong outlet is just as safe as plugging them into a grounded outlet.

K&T Wiring and Insurance:

Many insurance companies refuse to insure houses that have knob-and-tube wiring due to the risk of fire. Exceptions are sometimes made for houses where an electrical contractor has deemed the system to be safe.

Advice for those with K&T wiring:

• Have the system evaluated by a qualified electrician. Only an expert can confirm that the system was installed and modified correctly.
• Do not run an excessive amount of appliances in the home, as this can cause a fire. 
• Where the wiring is brittle or cracked, it should be replaced. Proper maintenance is crucial. 
• K&T wiring should not be used in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms or outdoors. Wiring must be grounded in order to be used safely in these locations. 
• Rewiring a house can take weeks and cost thousands of dollars, but unsafe wiring can cause fires, complicate estate transactions, and make insurers skittish. 
• Homeowners should carefully consider their options before deciding whether to rewire their house. 
• The homeowner or an electrician should carefully remove any insulation that is found surrounding K&T wires. 
• Prospective home buyers should get an estimate of the cost of replacing K&T wiring. They can use this amount to negotiate a cheaper price for the house. 

In summary, knob-and-tube wiring is likely to be a safety hazard due to improper modifications and the addition of building insulation. Inspectors need to be wary of this old system and be prepared to inform their clients about its potential dangers. 

Synthetic Stucco (EIFS)

EIFS stands for Exterior Insulating and Finishing Systems. It is sometimes referred to as Synthetic Stucco. Its use increased sharply in the 1990s. In North America about 300, 000 homes have an EIFS exterior.

We care because EIFS has been connected to concealed rot in wall cavities.

What Exactly Is It?

There are many different systems offered by various manufacturers, but in general EIFS wall systems consist of a wood frame wall covered with a sheathing such as plywood, or even gypsum board. Plastic foam insulation boards are glued or fastened to the sheathing. A 1/16- to 1/4- inch-thick base coat is troweled on to the insulation. A glass fiber reinforcing mesh is imbedded in the base coat. Finally, a finished coat is sprayed, troweled or rolled on. This finish coat provides the color and texture.

Many installations have no building paper or housewrap behind the stucco to act as a backup material.

What Is Happening

Rain water appears to be getting into the wall systems through imperfections in the stucco. These include joints around windows and doors and penetrations from railings, wiring, plumbing, vents, etc. Once water gets behind the system it gets trapped, leading to mold, mildew and rot of the sheathing, studs, flooring and other framing members. EIFS houses often look good until sections of the wall are removed revealing concealed damage. The damage can take place within the first few years of the home's life.

As most of the damage has been found in houses in coastal areas, some have suggested that condensation is a problem; however, since the most severe damage seems to show up around wall penetrations, condensation does not appear to be the culprit. The worst damage is often found below and beside windows.

Solutions

There is little that can be done on existing systems short of re-siding or paying fanatical attention to keeping the water out. Caulking and flashing maintenance should be a high priority for people with synthetic stucco houses.

In the very newest installations, contractors are using building paper or housewrap behind the insulation to protect the sheathing. In addition, the newest installations are designed with a drainage system behind the insulation to allow any water which does get in, to drain out. This is not unlike the drainage system found in a brick veneer home. These improvements should work but only if they are well constructed.

So far we know that areas of high rain fall, and particularly areas with rain accompanied by wind, result in houses with the most damage. Homes which have no roof overhang or very small overhang or many penetrations through the wall systems are also at risk.

Unfortunately, a visual inspection cannot tell the whole story, and until invasive testing becomes standardized and sufficient data becomes available for our area, concealed damage in synthetic stucco houses will remain a question mark.

Carbon Monoxide

WHAT IS CARBON MONOXIDE?

CO is a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas.
It is a by-product of incomplete combustion (un-burned fuel such as gas, oil, wood, etc.)
Low concentrations of CO can go undetected and can contribute to ongoing, unidentified illnesses. At high concentrations, it can be deadly.

WHY IS IT DANGEROUS?

If there is CO in the air you breath, it will enter your blood system the same way oxygen does, through your lungs. The CO displaces the oxygen in your blood, depriving your body of oxygen. When the CO displaces enough oxygen, you suffocate.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS?

· Confusion
· Cardiac Problems
· Brain Damage
· Severe Headaches
· Breathing Difficulties
· Dizziness
· Death

WHAT CAN PRODUCE CO IN OUR HOMES?

Anything that burns fuel or generates combustion gases including:

· Gas Stoves
· Fireplaces
· Automobiles
· BBQ
· Furnaces
· Ranges
· Boilers
· Space Heaters

Solid fuels, such as wood, always produce carbon monoxide when they are burned. Gas and liquid fuels may produce no CO or very little.

WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON SOURCES OF CARBON MONOXIDE?

1. Automobile exhaust in attached garages

This is responsible for 60% of all CO alarms. People who warm their cars up in the garage are trapping CO inside the garage. The CO can find its way into the home.

2. Gas cooking appliances

Reported to account for 20% of CO alarms.
May be a result of a misused, poorly
maintained, poorly installed, or unvented
cooking appliance.

3. Poor draft/venting for fuel burning appliances -

This is one of the most common and serious causes for CO build up and has been reported to account for up to 19% of CO alarms. The products of combustion are not being safely expelled to the exterior. This could be due to venting problems, such as blocked chimney flues or inadequate venting for appliances or fireplaces. Other problems include poor installation and negative air pressure in the house, causing backdrafting, often due to exhaust fans.

Other problems include:

Poor combustion at furnace

Inadequate combustion air to the furnace can result in incomplete combustion. If the furnace has a cracked heat exchanger, it is possible to get CO into the circulating air. It is also imperative that we do not deprive our heating equipment and fuel burning appliances of air; especially in air-tight homes where running exhaust fans can result in a shortage of combustion air. Combustion air is essential for safe operation of furnaces, water heaters, and other fuel burning equipment.

Leakage -

A leak in a chimney or flue pipe.

Ventilation -

Barbecues or gasoline powered equipment operating in a attached garage, basement,
or enclosed area.

Are there more problems with carbon monoxide today than 30 years ago?

Yes, due to -
More energy-efficient, air-tight homes
Less natural ventilation

How can I guard against carbon monoxide poisoning?

The first line of defense is to have your home heating systems, fuel burning appliances, flues and chimneys checked and/or cleaned annually.

CONCLUSIONS

CO detectors are designed to protect the average healthy human from death or serious injury under the current standards; however - People who are more susceptible cannot depend on these devices for total protection. In this case, more sensitive CO detecting equipment should be used.

Several groups are working with UL to improve the standards. October 99 revisions have already been drafted. There is room for improvement by imposing stricter standards as well as technological development.
It is critical that people understand the dangers of CO and that the people who investigate it are properly trained and are using CO testing equipment properly.

Where to install a CO detector?

One or more CO detectors in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Usually one per floor.
Maintain and test regularly as instructed by the manufacturer.

Cheers to Carson Dunlop for providing us with this valuable information! For more information please contact your leading Toronto home inspection firm.