Truss Uplift

An Uplifting Experience

Truss uplift has nothing to do with plastic surgery or under- garments. It is a phenomenon common in homes built with roof trusses as opposed to rafters. If a house suffers from truss uplift, the top floor ceilings literally lift off the interior walls in the winter. They drop back down in the summer. Needless to say, this is a tad disconcerting to the homeowner. At first glance, one might assume that the floors have settled. Actually the ceiling has gone up - sometimes creating a gap of as much as two inches where interior walls meet the ceilings.

What is a Truss? Trusses are prefabricated structural assemblies which hold up the roof and the top floor ceilings. Trusses tend to be a stronger lighter and less expensive approach to roof framing.

Trusses are strong because they make use of the most efficient geometric shape we know of - the triangle. Trusses are a series of triangles fastened together with gusset plates. The outside members of a truss are called chords while the inner pieces are known as webs.

Why Truss Uplift?

Houses have changed over the years. Attics of newer houses have lots of insulation and ventilation. They also have roof trusses instead of rafters and ceiling joists. The bottom chord of a truss is buried below a deep blanket of insulation. Even on the coldest days the bottom chord is nice and warm. The top chords however, are above the insulation and get very cold in a well ventilated attic.

While the bottom chord is warm and is drying out, the top chords are doing just the opposite. The cold winter air has very high relative humidity. The top chords absorb moisture from the air causing them to elongate.

With the top chords growing and the bottom chord shrinking, the truss arches up in the middle causing the ceilings to lift off the walls. In the summer, the cycle reverses itself.

What Is The Problem? 

No problem really - from a structural point of view. But cosmetically it's another story. No one has yet solved the problem, but some builders mask it by securing the ceiling drywall to the top of the walls and not to the trusses for a distance of 18 inches away from the walls. The drywall flexes and stays fastened to the walls while the trusses lift above it.

Others use a decorative molding where the walls meet the ceilings. They fasten the moldings to the ceilings but not to the walls. As the ceilings move up, the moldings go with them hiding the gap.

One little tip to remember. If you're redecorating, always do it in the winter when the ceiling is at its highest point. Otherwise you'll have a stripe around the room below the molding next winter!

House CSI - Quality Home Inspections by Inspectors who have Actually Built Homes!

Please contact us for more information! 

Renovation Consultations

Martyn Boyce supervised and directed home renovations in Toronto for over 20 years. Needless to say, he has the necessary knowledge and experience to advise you on any of your future renovation decisions. One of the greatest benefits of the renovation consultation is that we can inform you of exactly how to go about your renovation and if your ideas are reasonable given the existing structure. Our objective is to help you understand how to keep costs down, but ultimately how to make you dreams come alive.

Here is a quick break down of services regarding Renovation Consultations. This is a unique service that we offer and may be of interest to you.


Pre-Renovation Review - Please contact us for a quote.
The pre-renovation inspection is an initial review consultation to assess the suitability of property and structure with the respect to the work planned by home owner. Usually takes less than 3 hours and does not include a written report.

Pre-Renovation Consultation - Please contact us for a quote.
(With existing plans)
Review of plans, detailed structural analysis, and recommendations for improvements. This will include a written report.

Pre-Renovation Consultation - Please contact us for a quote.
(Without existing plans)
This includes the ‘Pre-renovation review’ as the initial meeting. It is then followed by Martyn providing a preliminary outline drawing of the existing house and options for the planned renovation design.

This can also be followed by detailed drawings, scope of work, specifications, & permits required. These can only be quoted after the initial consultations.

Renovation in Progress Consultation - Please contact us for a quote.
For those that may be having issues with a renovation in progress. We can provide an independent unbiased assessment of your project status.

For more information contact Martyn Boyce P.Eng at House CSI.

GFCI Outlets

What is a GFCI? 

A ground-fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI, is a device used in electrical wiring to disconnect a circuit when unbalanced current is detected between an energized conductor and a neutral return conductor. Such an imbalance is sometimes caused by current "leaking" through a person who is simultaneously in contact with a ground and an energized part of the circuit, which could result in lethal shock. GFCIs are designed to provide protection in such a situation, unlike standard circuit breakers, which guard against overloads, short circuits and ground faults.

It is estimated that about 300 deaths by electrocution occur every year, so the use of GFCIs has been adopted in new construction, and recommended as an upgrade in older construction, in order to mitigate the possibility of injury or fatality from electric shock.

History

The first high-sensitivity system for detecting current leaking to ground was developed by Henri Rubin in 1955 for use in South African mines. This cold-cathode system had a tripping sensitivity of 250 mA (milliamperes), and was soon followed by an upgraded design that allowed for adjustable trip-sensitivity from 12.5 to 17.5 mA. The extremely rapid tripping after earth leakage-detection caused the circuit to de-energize before electric shock could drive a person's heart into ventricular fibrillation, which is usually the specific cause of death attributed to electric shock.

Charles Dalziel first developed a transistorized version of the ground-fault circuit interrupter in 1961. Through the 1970s, most GFCIs were of the circuit-breaker type. This version of the GFCI was prone to frequent false trips due to poor alternating-current characteristics of 120-volt insulations. Especially in circuits with long cable runs, current leaking along the conductors’ insulation could be high enough that breakers tended to trip at the slightest imbalance.

Since the early 1980s, ground-fault circuit interrupters have been built into outlet receptacles, and advances in design in both receptacle and breaker types have improved reliability while reducing instances of "false trips," known as nuisance-tripping.

Testing Receptacle-Type GFCIs

Receptacle-type GFCIs are currently designed to allow for safe and easy testing that can be performed without any professional or technical knowledge of electricity. GFCIs should be tested right after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit. They should also be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and are providing protection from fatal shock.

To test the receptacle GFCI, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. The light should be on. Then press the "TEST" button on the GFCI. The "RESET" button should pop out, and the light should turn off.

If the "RESET" button pops out but the light does not turn off, the GFCI has been improperly wired. Contact an electrician to correct the wiring errors.

If the "RESET" button does not pop out, the GFCI is defective and should be replaced.

If the GFCI is functioning properly and the lamp turns off, press the "RESET" button to restore power to the outlet.

Hire an InterNACHI inspector. InterNACHI inspectors must pass rigorous safety training and are knowledgeable in the ways to reduce the likelihood of electrocution.

15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Own!

The following items are essential tools, but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful.

1. Plunger

A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most inconvenient household problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.

2. Combination Wrench Set

One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes, and because both varieties are widely used, you’ll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3. Slip-Joint Pliers

Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4. Adjustable Wrench

Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.

5. Caulking Gun

Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.

6. Flashlight

None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.

7. Tape Measure

Measuring house projects requires a tape measure -- not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy.

8. Hacksaw

A hacksaw is useful for cutting metal objects, such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.

 9. Torpedo Level

Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle -- not merely close.

10. Safety Glasses / Goggles

For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

 11. Claw Hammer

A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own. Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.


12. Screwdriver Set

It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flathead and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute. Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw.

13. Wire Cutters

Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The side-cutting style (unlike the stronger end-cutting style) is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14. Respirator / Safety Mask

While paints and other coatings are now manufactured to be less toxic (and lead-free) than in previous decades, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally inhaling. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty and dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop.

15. Duct Tape

This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.

Sample Report

At House CSI, we use Horizon reporting software. This is an industry leading home inspection report system which has been designed and developped for experienced inspectors by Carson Dunlop, an accomplished engineering firm. By using Horizon your report can be prepared and printed on site which can help lead to a quick decision. 

Please follow the link to view one of our detailed reports and see what sets us apart from the competition!

http://housecsi.com/inspection-report.html

Install Efficient Shower-heads & Toilets

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

• low-flow shower-heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up; 
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank; 
• vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and 
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

It's all about savings and making your home more energy efficient!  Get yourself a quality home inspection by qualified home inspectors for more information on how you can save!

Seal & Insulate Your Home

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI home inspector can assess leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

• electrical receptacles/outlets; mail slots; 
• around pipes and wires; 
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners; 
• attic hatches; 
• fireplace dampers; 
• inadequate weatherstripping around doors; baseboards; 
• window frames; and switch plates. 

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:

• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas. 
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry. 
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner. 

More ways to Save!

Install a tankless water heater

Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

Replace incandescent lights

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs. 
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy. 
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

More to come!

House CSI

Find better ways to heat and cool your house

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems: 

• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy. 
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters. 
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs. 
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs. 
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces. 
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

Easy Ways to Save Energy!

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at House CSI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

• Government, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the country. 
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient. 
• It increases the comfort level indoors. 
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming. 
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

Over the next few weeks I will continue to post easy ways home owners can save on their energy cost....Stay tuned!

Home Maintenance!

There are so many home maintenance and repair items that are important; it can be confusing trying to establish which are the most critical. To simplify things, we have compiled a short list of our favorites. These are by no means all-inclusive, nor do they replace any of the information in a home inspection report. They should, however, help you get started on the right foot. Remember, any items marked as priority or safety issues on your home inspection report need immediate attention.

One-Time Tasks:

•  Install smoke detectors as necessary (usually one on each floor of the home, near any sleeping areas). Install carbon monoxide detectors, according to manufacturer’s recommendations. 
• Make any electrical improvements recommended in the home inspection report. 
• Remove and wood/soil contact to prevent rot and insect damage. 
• Change the locks on all doors. Use a dead bolt for better security and to minimize insurance costs.
• Correct trip hazards such as broker or uneven walks and driveways, loose or torn carpet or uneven flooring. 
• Correct unsafe stairways and landings. (Railings missing, loose, too low, etc.) 
• Have all chimneys inspected before operating any of the chimney exhausting appliances. 
• Locate and mark the shut offs for the heating, electrical and plumbing systems. 
• Label the circuits on the electrical panel. 
• If there is a septic system, have the tank pumped and inspected. If the house is on a private water supply, set up a regular testing procedure for checking water quality. 

Regular Maintenance Items:

• Clean the gutters in the spring and fall. 
• Check for damaged roofing and flashing materials twice a year. 
• Cut back trees and shrubs for the house walls, roof and air conditioning system as needed. 
• Clean the tracks on horizontal siding windows annually, and ensure the drain holes are clear. 
• Test ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI), carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors using the test button, monthly. 
• Service the furnace or boiler yearly. 
• Check furnace filters, humidifiers, and electronic air cleaners monthly. 
• Check the bathtub and shower caulking monthly and improve promptly if necessary. 
• Shut off outdoor water faucets in the fall to prevent freezing over the winter. 
• Check garage door safety mechanisms monthly. 
• Check attics for evidence of leaks and condensation twice a year. 
• Check attic vents. Make sure vents are not obstructed. 

House CSI

PVC - Things You May Not Know!

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is a widely used building material praised for its durability, yet criticized for its potential health hazards.

PVC was discovered accidentally in the early 19th century when the polymer appeared as a white solid inside sunlight-exposed flasks of vinyl chloride. The first attempt to use the substance commercially was made by Russian chemists who failed because of the PVC's rigidity and brittleness. In 1926, Waldo Semon, a rubber scientist for B.F. Goodrich, successfully plasticized PVC. It was put to use as insulation for electrical wiring. It became critical to the war effort during the 1940s, and its peacetime use subsequently exploded. Today, PVC is the third most relied-upon plastic in the world, after polyethylene and polypropylene.

As it is inexpensive, durable, strong, and chemically and biologically resistant, as well as easy to install and replace, PVC is widely used in the following construction applications:
insulation for electrical wires; frames for windows and doors, after impact-modifiers and stabilizers have been added; plumbing piping, especially sewage pipes and other applications where corrosion limits the use of metal. 

Roughly half of the world's PVC is used in municipal and industrial pipes. In the U.S., 66% of the water distribution pipes and 75% of sewage pipes are constructed from PVC. In addition, PVC pipes can be easily fused together to create permanent and virtually leak-free joints;
roofing and ceiling systems and membranes; and a multitude of other building components, such as flooring, carpet backing, wall coverings, junction boxes, shades and blinds, shower curtains, flues, gutters, downspouts, flashing and moldings.

Inspectors can be aided in the identification of PVC by its color, which often indicates its use: white PVC is used for drain and waste vent pipe and some low-pressure piping; dark gray is used for industrial pressure systems; purple is used for reclaimed wastewater; white, blue and dark gray are all used for cold-water pipe; and green is used for sewer lines.

Potential Hazards

While PVC is an extremely popular building material, its critics deride it for certain health and environmental dangers, especially when its entire life cycle is considered. Touted for its flame resistance, PVC can smolder unnoticed and release extremely dangerous gasses that present both acute and chronic health hazards to building occupants, fire fighters, and surrounding communities. The following two products of PVC combustion are of particular concern; hydrogen chloride, which is a corrosive, highly toxic gas that can burn skin and cause severe, permanent respiratory damage; and dioxin, the most dangerous known man-made carcinogen, which will persist in the environment for a long period of time. PVC is the largest contributor to the world’s dioxin burden.

PVC has also been blamed for emitting chemical softeners called phthalates (in vinyl flooring), lead additives (in blinds), and toxic glues. For instance, one study of PVC shower curtains found that they released phthalates capable of causing nausea and damage to the liver and reproductive system. Vinyl chloride, an essential component of PVC, is a carcinogenic and potentially explosive gas with a mild, sweet odor. It can enter drinking water released from contact with PVC pipes, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Disposal of PVC is problematic because its unique characteristics make ordinary disposal unsafe or otherwise difficult; it does not decompose when buried, and it releases dangerous gasses when incinerated. Much of the PVC used in buildings eventually winds up in landfills where it can easily smolder and release a significant amount of deadly gasses. Manufacturers counter this argument by pointing out that PVC's resilience makes it appear in landfills less than its alternatives, and that some landfill liners are actually composed of PVC.

Thermal depolymerization has been developed to convert used PVC into other usable materials, but this method is rarely employed. The multitude of additives used to create PVC make large-scale recycling so cumbersome and expensive that manufacturers find it more cost-effective to make new PVC. Only 0.5% of the plastic is actually recycled, according to the Healthy Building Network.

In summary, the qualities that make PVC an ideal and popular building material must be weighed against its potential health dangers. The health effects of PVC on humans and the environment is a contentious issue, and inspectors and homeowners can perform their own research to stay informed.

Low E Windows

Low-emissivity glass, also known as low-E glass, uses a microscopically thin and virtually invisible metal or metallic oxide layer incorporated in the glazing surface to control heat transfer through insulated windows, reducing energy loss by 30% to 50%. Since the heating and cooling energy lost through windows accounts for 4% of all U.S. energy consumption every year, the Department of Energy is beginning to push more efficient windows as a standard, with low-E windows at the forefront. Meanwhile, as more low-E windows are put into service, unexpected problems have arisen. Inspectors, who conduct energy audits, as well as energy-conscious consumers, can benefit from knowing more about these energy-efficient windows and the advantages and problems associated with them.
 

The super-thin coating utilized in low-E glass helps to reduce the transfer of heat through the window in order to keep heat from entering the home in hot climates, and to prevent heat from escaping from the home to the exterior in colder climates. The low-E coating is typically used on multi-pane windows with argon gas-fills. Argon is an inert gas which has higher resistance to heat flow than air, and is non-toxic, colorless and odorless. In hotter climates with east- or west-facing windows, the low-E coating is applied to the outer layer of the glazing to help keep the heat out. In colder, heating-dominated climates, it is applied to the inner layer to keep warmth in.

Installing low-E windows can provide significant energy efficiency and savings, especially in hotter climates where windows with a low solar heat-gain coefficient (SHGC) are most effective. The SHGC rating for a window is the quantification of its properties in relation to its ability to transmit heat from solar radiation. A high SHGC means more solar heat is allowed to pass through the window and a low SHGC means less solar heat will pass through. While a window with a higher SHGC can actually be beneficial in some climates where cooling needs are minimal, because it allows for more solar heat gain to warm the interior during winter months, windows with a low SHGC rating is best for hot climates where blocking the sun’s heat is much more important.

Inspecting your Air Conditioning System

A building's central air-conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following the tips offered in this guide.

Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components

The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the building that is designed to push heat from the inside of the building to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal "fins" that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components -- after turning off power to the unit!

• Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit's exterior. 
• Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow. 
• Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit's interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.  
• Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb. 
• Add lubricating oil to the motor. 
• Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions. 
• Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year. When they collect dirt, they may not function properly. 

Inspect the Condensate Drain Line

Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit. They are located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines—a primary drain line that’s built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:
Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly.

Clean the Air Filter

Air filters remove pollen, dust and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 inches by 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade indoor air quality, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if building occupants have respiratory problems,if you have pets with fur, or if dusty conditions are present.

Cover the Exterior Unit

When the cooling season is over, you should cover the exterior condenser unit in preparation for winter. If it isn’t being used, why expose it to the elements? This measure will prevent ice, leaves and dirt from entering the unit, which can harm components and require additional maintenance in the spring. A cover can be purchased, or you can make one yourself by taping together plastic trash bags. Be sure to turn the unit off before covering it.

Close the Air-Distribution Registers

Air-distribution registers are duct openings in ceilings, walls and floors where cold air enters the room. They should be closed after the cooling season ends in order to keep warm air from back-flowing out of the room during the warming season. Pests and dust will also be unable to enter the ducts during the winter if the registers are closed. These vents typically can be opened or closed with an adjacent lever or wheel. Remember to open the registers in the spring before the cooling season starts. Also, make sure they are not blocked by drapes, carpeting or furniture.

In addition, homeowners should practice the following strategies in order to keep their central air conditioning systems running properly:

• Have the air-conditioning system inspected by a professional each year before the start of the cooling season. 
• Reduce stress on the air conditioning system by enhancing your home’s energy efficiency. Switch from incandescent lights to compact fluorescent, for instance, which produce less heat. 

In summary, any homeowner can perform periodic inspections and maintenance to their home's central air-conditioning system.

Efflorescence

Efflorescence is an accumulation of minerals and salts on masonry surfaces, such as brick, cement, and sometimes stone. Efflorescence itself is not dangerous; it indicates the presence of excess water, which can lead to more serious structural and health issues.

How Efflorescence Forms

The earth contains natural salts that are present in the raw materials that make up masonry products, such as concrete, asphalt and stucco. These salts remain trapped within masonry in solid form until they are dissolved into water, which usually makes its way into the material through small pores. Water can originate from rain, sprinklers, household leaks, or any number of other places. Cold, dry air will draw this liquid back out of the material where it evaporates, depositing the salt as a white crystalline growth on the surface. Efflorescence typically forms during cold, dry weather shortly after it has rained and moisture has entered the masonry. It can occur year-round, but it is most likely to form during the winter due to low temperatures.

As with mould, the appearance of efflorescence varies greatly. It can be powdery, it can have sharp edges and be easy to spot, or it can have indistinct edges. It can cover a large area as a fine dust, or form large individual crystals. Its appearance depends partly on the type of salt from which it is composed, but humidity also plays a role in this determination. In exceptionally dry climates, water can evaporate before it even reaches the surface, in which case the salt will accumulate unseen beneath the surface. In humid conditions, moisture may take a long time to evaporate, allowing the slow growth of “whispers” projecting from the surface.

Inspectors should note the presence of efflorescence in their inspection reports because it generally occurs where there is excess moisture, a condition that also encourages the growth of mould. An exception can be made during the first few years of a building’s construction when efflorescence will appear as a result of moisture locked within the masonry in a process called “new building bloom.” This moisture comes from water added during the manufacturing or mixing process that will undoubtedly contribute to efflorescence. This type of efflorescence will appear all over the masonry material and will continue to accumulate until the initial water supply is exhausted, which can take up to a year. Efflorescence that appears locally and after the “new building bloom” is over is a symptom of excess moisture that can be problematic. The source of this moisture should be determined and corrected.

In summary, efflorescence is a harmless yet unsightly accumulation of salts on masonry surfaces. Its presence indicates excess water, a condition that can damage interiors and encourage the growth of mould. Inspectors should know how to remove efflorescence from surfaces, and educate their clients about its identification and significance.

Pre-Listing Home Inspections

Home inspections have traditionally been for the benefit of the purchaser. Pre-inspected listings benefit all parties - purchasers, vendors and Realtors.

Home inspections, performed as a condition of the offer, can kill deals. Sometimes this is because the purchaser gets cold feet; sometimes there's a big problem no one knew about. Sometimes it is because the house has been misrepresented; sometimes it is because the home inspector scared the purchasers by not explaining that minor and typical problems are just that - minor and typical.

If the home inspection is performed prior to the house being listed, all parties will be aware of the physical condition of the house before an offer is drawn. There will be no surprises after the fact. Deals will not fall through.

Pre-inspected Listings Avoid Renegotiation

In a buyers' market, most houses have to be sold twice. It takes a lot of work to get a signed Agreement of Purchase and Sale. Then the home inspection is done and the purchaser wants to renegotiate.

If all parties know the condition of the house prior to the offer, there is no need for renegotiation. As most real estate agents know, renegotiation is very difficult. Vendors have already mentally sold the house; purchasers are suffering buyers' remorse. Egos, pride and frustration can muddy the already emotional waters.

A vendor who pays for a home inspection will be further ahead than one who has to renegotiate.

Unrealistic Vendors

An inspection at the time of listing can also help a Realtor deal with a vendor who has unrealistic expectations. The inspection report is good ammunition for explaining why you can't ask top bucks for a house which is not in top condition.

Repairs Prior To Sale

Sometimes, the home inspection will reveal items which should be repaired immediately. A pre-inspected listing allows the vendor to repair the problem prior to putting the house on the market.

If the inspection occurs after the Agreement of Purchase and Sale, the purchaser could walk, renegotiate or, depending on the inspection clause, the vendor may have the option to repair. A repair done by an unmotivated vendor may not be the best repair and may not meet the purchasers' expectations. This has caused more than one deal not to close.

Peace of Mind for the Purchaser

There is no doubt that part of the value of a home inspection is a guided tour of the house for the prospective purchaser. We can always return to do a walk-through with the purchaser, if requested.

What is a Home Inspection?

A home inspection is defined as a visual inspection of the readily accessible systems and components of a home and includes the determining whether systems are still performing their intended functions. The inspection and report are an invaluable service that provides you with an unbiased professional opinion of a property and can bring peace of mind when purchasing a home. The inspection is methodical and meticulous; designed to cover specific items that include:

• Roofing
• Exterior
• Structure 
• Electrical
• Heating
• Cooling
• Plumbing
• Insulation
• Interior 

A home inspection is not technically exhaustive meaning the inspection is purely visual. It does not identify defects that cannot be seen, such as problems hidden behind walls, ceilings or floors. The inspection cannot be responsible for finding conditions that may only be visible when storage or furniture is moved. It is important for clients to understand the limitations and conditions of a home inspection. Most home inspectors will provide a written document/contract to the client before the inspection that outlines exactly what is involved with a home inspection and require it to be signed before performing the inspection. The home inspection is designed to give the client the big picture when it comes to evaluating a house. The inspector is a generalist, not a specialist and it’s best to compare a home inspector to a general medical practitioner, as they would find something wrong with a patient and then send him/her to a specialist. The specialist in our case would be an electrician, plumber, roofing contractor, HVAC contractor, engineer and so forth. You could always opt out of a traditional inspection and bring in all the expert trades to inspect your potential property, but this would be very costly and will end up costing well over a $1000. This is why the home inspection industry exists, for a much lower fee you bring in one person who has a general knowledge of all. 

You also must remember that buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring an inspector is almost insignificant by comparison.

During the inspection, the inspector will take you step by step throughout the home and gladly address any questions or concerns that you may have. By attending the inspection, you will get a better understanding of the home’s overall condition and receive many helpful maintenance tips/advice.

The actual inspection usually takes 3- 4 hours, but every house/inspection is different and can vary in time. The inspection process should never be rushed and we find that having two home inspectors during every inspection allows for a more efficient inspection without compromising quality. It also allows us to provide you with on-site reports for clients needing a quick transaction. When the inspection is done we do a property review with you and answer any outstanding questions you may have. Our inspections are unbiased neutral opinions that have no interest in whether the real estate transaction goes through.

If you would like more information, please contact us at House CSI

Vermiculite Insulation

What Is It?
If you have never seen vermiculite insulating an attic, you may have seen it in potting soil. Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral worldwide. When heated rapidly to high temperatures, this crystalline mineral expands into low density, accordion-like, golden brown strands. In fact, its worm-like shape is what gives vermiculite its name. The worms are broken into rectangular chunks about the size of the eraser on the end of a pencil. In addition to being light, vermiculite chunks are also absorbent and fire retardant. These characteristics make it great as an additive, for example to potting soil. It also makes a good insulating material.

Sold under various brand names, such as Zonolite Attic Insulation, the insulation came in big bags. Thousands of homeowners simply opened the bags and poured the vermiculite onto their attic floor and sometimes down exterior walls. It was generally not used in new construction. 

What Is The Risk?
Asbestos minerals tend to separate into microscopic particles that become airborne and are easily inhaled. People exposed to asbestos in the workplace have developed several types of life-threatening diseases, including lung cancer. Workers in and around the Libby mine developed serious health problems. Like any hazards, length and intensity of exposure are major factors in the risk of asbestos-related respiratory illness. To assess the risk of asbestos exposure at a house, a sample of the vermiculite would need to be analyzed by a lab. Since most of the vermiculite used in Canada was taken from the Libby mine, the odds are quite good that there is asbestos in the vermiculite in Canadian attics.

The good news is that we don’t live in our attics. In addition, as long as it is undisturbed, neither the asbestos fibres bound up in the vermiculite chunks nor the dust will be released into the air. According to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health in the U.S., “Most people who get asbestos-related diseases have been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time.” Lastly, most of the time the air in your house flows from the house into the attic, rather than into the house from the attic. The bottom line is, like most household products that may contain asbestos, and there are many, doing nothing is often the best approach. Naturally, the risk of exposure increases with the amount of time spent in the attic.

Recommendations
If the attic or walls of a house contain vermiculite insulation, leave it alone. Avoid disturbing the material. Do not sweep it or vacuum it up. Do not store belongings in the attic. If work is planned that involves these areas, for example installing pot lights in a room below the attic, send a sample of the vermiculite to a private lab. Send several samples, and use a lab specializing in asbestos analysis. If it is found to contain asbestos, or if you just assume it does, precautions should be taken. The safest approach would be to have the insulation in the affected areas removed by a qualified environmental contractor. Make sure an the inspection firm makes frequent site visits if it is hired to assure that a contractor follows proper procedures and requirements. The inspector may recommend and perform checks after the correction to assure that the area has been properly cleaned.

For smaller jobs it may be sufficient to isolate work areas with temporary barriers or enclosures to avoid spreading fibers, use disposable protective clothing, and use proper respiratory protection. An important note – disposable respirators or dust masks are not appropriate for asbestos. Again, it is best to consult a qualified contractor or certified home inspector.

InterNachi Code of Ethics

The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) promotes a high standard of professionalism, business ethics and inspection procedures. InterNACHI members subscribe to the following Code of Ethics in the course of their business.

    

I.        Duty to the Public

                     1.        The InterNACHI member shall abide by the Code of Ethics and substantially follow the InterNACHI Standards of Practice.

                     2.        The InterNACHI member shall not engage in any practices that could be damaging to the public or bring discredit to the home inspection industry.

                     3.        The InterNACHI member shall be fair, honest, impartial, and act in good faith in dealing with the public.

                     4.        The InterNACHI member shall not discriminate in any business activities on the basis of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, familial status, sexual orientation or handicap, and shall comply with all applicable federal, state and local laws concerning discrimination.

                     5.        The InterNACHI member shall be truthful regarding his/her services and qualifications.

                     6.        The InterNACHI member shall have no undisclosed conflict of interest with the client, nor shall the InterNACHI member accept or offer any undisclosed commissions, rebates, profits or other benefit, nor shall the InterNACHI member accept or offer any disclosed or undisclosed commissions, rebates, profits or other benefit from real estate agents, brokers or any third parties having financial interest in the sale of the property, nor shall the InterNACHI member offer or provide any disclosed or undisclosed financial compensation directly or indirectly to any real estate agent, real estate broker or real estate company for referrals or for inclusion on lists of preferred and/or affiliated inspectors or inspection companies.

                     7.        The InterNACHI member shall not communicate any information about an inspection to anyone except the client without the prior written consent of the client, except where it may affect the safety of others, or violates a law or statute.

                     8.        The InterNACHI member shall always act in the interest of the client, unless doing so violates a law, statute or this Code of Ethics.

                     9.        The InterNACHI member shall use a written contract that specifies the services to be performed, limitations of services, and fees.

                  10.        The InterNACHI member shall comply with all government rules and licensing requirements of the jurisdiction where he/she conducts business.

                  11.        The InterNACHI member shall not perform or offer to perform, for an additional fee, any repairs or repair-associated services to the structure on which the member or member's company has prepared a home inspection report for a period of 12 months. This provision shall not include services to components and/or systems that are not included in the InterNACHI Standards of Practice.  

    II.        Duty to Continue Education

                     1.        The InterNACHI member shall comply with InterNACHI's current Continuing Education requirements.

                     2.        The InterNACHI member shall pass the InterNACHI's Online Inspector Exam once every calendar year. 

  III.        Duty to the Profession and InterNACHI

                     1.        The InterNACHI member shall strive to improve the home inspection industry by sharing his/her lessons and/or experiences for the benefit of all. This does not preclude the member from copyrighting or marketing his/her expertise to other inspectors or the public in any manner permitted by law.

                     2.        The InterNACHI member shall assist the InterNACHI leadership in disseminating and publicizing the benefits of InterNACHI membership.

                     3.        The InterNACHI member shall not engage in any act or practice that could be deemed damaging, seditious or destructive to InterNACHI, fellow InterNACHI members, InterNACHI employees, leadership or directors.  Member(s) accused of acting or deemed in violation of such rules shall be reviewed by the Ethics committee for possible sanctions and/or expulsion from InterNACHI.

                     4.        The InterNACHI member shall abide by InterNACHI's current membership requirements.

                     5.        The InterNACHI member shall abide by InterNACHI's current message board rules.

Humidity!

I truly believe that a home inspection is a great opportunity to educate clients on all aspects of the home. Many things we talk about during the inspection have nothing to do with the actual findings of the inspection, but more along the lines of proper home maintenance and what to expect as a home owner. Simple things like humidity are often forgotten about or just never really understood by home owners.  This is another great article from our friends at Carson Dunlop that explains humidity in the house, and what you should know.   

The outside winter air is cold and dry. The inside winter air is dry. Our chapped lips, dry skin and static zaps from doorknobs remind us of that all season long. Homes like the dry environment, but dry air makes people uncomfortable. While an ideal humidity for homes can be as low as 5%, people prefer about 60% humidity. And because people are more powerful than homes, we add humidifiers to have it our way.

Physics 101
If we asked Einstein what he thought about humidity, he might have said, “It’s all relative”. Of course, he said that about everything. We typically talk about relative humidity rather than absolute humidity. Relative humidity is the amount of water vapour in the air relative to how much vapour the air can hold before it condenses or rains. For example, a room with 4 pints of water vapour may have a relative humidity of 40%. This means we could have 10 pints of water in the air before the relative humidity reaches 100% and we get rain or condensation.

The interesting part is that if you cool down the air in a room but add no more water vapour, the relative humidity goes up. And, if you warm the air, the relative humidity goes down. This is important because the winter air outside is very cold and dry. When we bring the winter air into our homes and warm it up, we get really dry air in our homes. For example, outdoor air with 80% relative humidity at freezing temperatures will only have 20% relative humidity when we warm it to room temperature.

Do I need a humidifier?
If your house is new, you may not have a humidifier. You may not need one because the foundation and wood framing are still drying out, releasing moisture into the air. Also, new houses are “tight”, which means the air within them hangs around for a while before being replaced by dry exterior air. It hangs around long enough to pick up moisture from things like showers, cooking, drying clothes and breathing. By comparison, old houses are drafty. Cold, dry air is creeping in all the time, drying out the home as it flushes the warm moist air out.

An oldie, but still works great!

Do I have one?

If there is a small box like the one in the picture hanging from the furnace or ductwork beside the furnace with a small electrical wire and a small water hose attached, then YES. You may also see the humidistat, a dial that looks like the thermostat but is used to control the humidity level, and is often mounted to the basement ductwork.

A humidistat.

A drum type humidifier has a tray of water with a sponge barrel or drum rotating through it. The tray is kept full with a float switch, which allows water from the house plumbing to enter the tray when the water level drops. When the humidistat is turned up or the humidity level drops, a small electric motor rotates the sponge drum through the tray, absorbing water. Some of the air moving through the duct-work blows across the sponge, picking up moisture. This moist air moves through the ducts and into the rooms.

Cascade type humidifiers have no tray of water. A small electric valve at the top controls the water supply to the humidifier. When the humidistat calls for water, the valve opens, trickling water down a honeycomb-like metal pad. Air blows across the pad, picking up moisture. Excess water is drained through a hose to a floor drain, laundry tub, or condensate pump.

What do I do?
If you have a drum style unit, the tray of sitting water is your nemesis. Ponding water will cause scale build-up and bacterial growth. Every spring, the water supply pipe valve should be turned off, the tray and sponge should be cleaned, and the humidistat should be set to OFF. In the fall, turn on the water valve, and set the humidistat to 35%. We recommend a mid-winter cleaning as well.

If you have a cascade style unit, turn off the water supply and turn the humidistat to OFF in the spring. Before use in the fall, remove and soak the pad in de-scaling solution. If it is damaged or too clogged to clean, the pad can be replaced. Once the pad is back in place, the water supply pipe valve can be turned back on, and the humidistat set to 35%. This unit will not need cleaning again until next year.

How much is too much?
As we said, people like about 60% relative humidity. Unfortunately, houses have a hard time coping with this in cold weather. Too little humidity makes people feel uncomfortable. Too much can cause condensation, mould, mildew, and rot as the warm moist air hits cool surfaces. What confuses many people is that as the weather gets colder, we have to LOWER the humidistat setting, even though we want to raise it. This is because the colder it is outside, the easier it is for condensation to form on cool surfaces like windows. We can reduce condensation by lowering the interior humidity level.

Outside	Recommended House Humidity
-20°F	15%
-20°F to -10°F	20%
-10°F to 0°F	25%
0°F to +10°F	35%
+10°F and above	40%
Summer months	Off

Keeping an eye on the amount of condensation on your windows is another great way to gauge your house humidity level. You can also track things with a room temperature and humidity monitor, available at hardware and building supply stores.

Undertaking Home Repairs!

Check out this article from Carson Dunlop. Great info for new home owners, or established home owners looking to renovate. Nothing to do with home inspections.

Let's start by differentiating between a home improvement and a home repair. A home improvement, as the name implies, means improving something. It is usually a renovation to create more space, change the layout of the house, improve energy efficiency, or to make aesthetic changes. This report will deal with the simpler topic of home repair--basically replacing things that are worn out or fixing things that are broken. Here are some very basic rules to follow.

1.     Know what you want done 

If you are replacing a worn out furnace, for example, do some research to find out whether you want a mid-efficiency furnace or a high-efficiency furnace. If you are repairing a roof with a leaking valley flashing, determine whether you want the valley flashing replaced or just patched to last a few years until the whole roof needs re-flashing.

If you know what you want done, you can compare apples to apples when reviewing quotations. Otherwise it would be very hard to compare various quotes if every contractor has a different repair strategy.

Be prepared to stick to your guns. Many contractors will tell you that the job is much bigger, much harder, or it must be done his way (because if you don't, it will be dangerous or much more expensive the next time).

As home inspectors, we are often faced with contractor opinions that differ drastically from the recommendations in our reports. In most of these cases, the contractor is proposing unnecessary work. 

2.     Find at least 3 experienced, reputable contractors who are capable of doing the work 

This may sound easier than it is. While it is best to rely on personal referrals from people you trust, these referrals must be taken with a grain of salt. Former customers of contractors are not usually in a position to comment on the quality of the installation of a furnace, for example. Also be sure the type of work that you are planning to have done is similar (in size and scope) to the work done for the person providing the referral. Many contractors who are geared to do major renovations are not well suited to do minor repairs and vice versa. 

3.     Obtain 3 written estimates 

Our experience has shown that contractor’s quotes can vary as much as 300% on any given job. This is sometimes due to different perceptions of what needs to be done. This can be avoided by following Step 1 carefully. However, sometimes the variance is simply the result of how busy the contractor is. 

4.     Get three references from each contractor 

Better than three references is a list of the recent clients that the contractor has worked for. That way you get to choose who you would like to select as a reference. Follow up with these references bearing in mind the comments in Step 2.

While you are at it, ensure that the contractor has appropriate licenses and insurance. 

5.     Choose the contractor 

Don't necessarily base your choice on price alone. Look carefully at what has been included in the estimates. Select the contractor with the best reputation, provided that the price for the job is fair. Avoid paying cash. The benefit of a cash deal is typically far greater for the contractor than it is for the homeowner.

6.     Have both parties sign a contract 

The contract should include a complete description of the work. It should also include details as to who is responsible for obtaining permits (if there is any doubt regarding the necessity of a permit, contact your local building department).

The contract should have a start date and a completion date. (On larger contracts, sometimes a penalty clause is included for each day the job extends beyond the completion date.)

The contract must also contain a payment schedule. The schedule should not demand very much money up front and the payment should be based on stages of completion as opposed to pre-determined dates.

Remember to hold back 10% of each payment for 45 days after the completion of the job to determine whether any liens have been placed on the property (as a result of the contractor not paying his sub-contractors).

Also, don't expect much in the way of a guarantee if you are simply asking a contractor to undertake band-aid repairs. Many contractors will not simply patch a damaged valley flashing, for example, even if they are 95% sure that the repair will work. This is because there is still a 5% chance that they will get complaints to fix a subsequent leak. In fairness, the leakage is not their fault. They just do not want the hassles. Consequently, many contractors will suggest repairs which are overkill (replacing the entire side of the roof, for example) to reduce the potential for complaints. A significantly lower price can be obtained, if you explain to the contractor that you expect him to do his best, but you aren't going to make him responsible for the future of the entire roof based on a $300 repair. 

7.     Expect delays 

Any type of home repair seems to take longer than was first predicted. If the repairs involve any sort of interior demolition, expect divorce dust. 

8.     Have contingency funds 

Many home repairs end up unearthing something else that requires repair. While this is very common, ask lots of questions if your contractor is proposing additional work.

We trust that the above information will help people in their dealings with contractors, realign expectations, and perhaps avoid pitfalls. 

A Typical Home Inspection Contract

Here is an example of standard home inspection contract. Pretty much all home inspection companies use a contract like this or similar and will not perform an inspection without having this signed by the client. Great info for those that don't know exactly what a home inspection is.

Limitations and Conditions of the Home Inspection:

These limitations and conditions explain the scope of your home inspection.  Please read them carefully before signing the agreement.

The purpose of your home inspection is to evaluate the general condition of a property. This includes the determining whether systems are still performing their intended functions. There are limitations to the scope of this inspection.  It provides a general overview of the more obvious repairs that may be needed.  It is not intended to be an exclusive list.  The ultimate decision of what to repair or replace is yours.  One homeowner may decide that certain conditions require repair or replacement, while another will not.

The home inspection provides you with a basic overview of the condition of the property.  Because your home inspector has only a limited amount of time to through the property, the inspection is not technically exhaustive.  Some conditions noted, such as foundation cracks or other signs of settling in a house, may either be cosmetic or may indicate a potential problem that is beyond the scope of the home inspection.  If you are concerned about any conditions noted in the home inspection report, we strongly recommend that you consult a qualified licensed contractor or engineering specialist.  These professionals can provide a more detailed analysis of any condition noted in the report at an additional cost.

A home inspection does not include identifying defects that are hidden behind walls, floors or ceilings.  This includes wiring, structure, plumbing and insulation that are hidden or inaccessible.  Some intermittent problems may not be obvious on a home inspection because they only happen under certain circumstances.  As an example, your home inspector may not discover leaks that occur only during certain weather conditions.  Home inspectors will not find conditions that may only be visible when storage or furniture is moved.  They do not remove wallpaper, look behind pictures or lift flooring (including carpet) to look underneath.

The inspection does not include hazardous materials that may be in or behind the walls, floors or ceilings of the property.  This includes building materials that are now suspected of posing a risk to health such as phenol-formaldehyde and urea-formaldehyde based products, fibreglass insulation and vermiculite insulation.  The inspector does not identify asbestos roofing, siding, wall, ceiling or floor finishes, insulation or fireproofing.  We do not look for lead or other toxic metals in such things as pipes, paint or window coverings.  The inspector does not deal with environmental hazards such as the past use of insecticides, fungicides, herbicides or pesticides.  The home inspector does not look for, or comment on, the past use of chemical termite treatments in or around the property.

We are not responsible for, and we do not comment on the quality of air in a building.  The inspector does not try to determine if there are irritants, pollutants, contaminants, or toxic materials in or around the building.  The inspection does not include spores, fungus, mould or mildew, including that which may be present behind walls or under floors.  You should note that whenever there is water damage noted in the report, there is a possibility that mould or mildew may be present, unseen behind a wall, floor or ceiling.

The home inspector does not look for and is not responsible for fuel oil, septic or gasoline tanks that may be buried on the property.  If fuel oil or other storage tanks remain on the property, you may be responsible for their removal and the safe disposal of any contaminated soil.  If you suspect there is a buried tank, we strongly recommend that you retain a qualified Environmental Consultant to determine whether this is a potential problem.

We will have no liability for any claim or complaint if the conditions have been disturbed, altered, repaired, replaced or otherwise changed before we have a reasonable period of time to investigate.

I have read, understood and accepted the above Limitations and Conditions of this home inspection.

Signed: ____________________________________________________________ Date: ___________________________